Do You Really Need a Nail Hardener?

What Is Nail Hardener?

Not to be confused with nail softeners or nail strengtheners (more on those below), “nail hardeners are short-term treatments that work to harden your nail plate — the visible part of the nail — to prevent them from splitting and breaking,” says Queenie Nguyen. Queenie Nguyen is a nail expert. Yashi Shrestha is a cosmetic chemist and the director of science and research at Novi Connect. 

How Do Nail Hardeners Work?

Keratin is a type of protein that is found in everything from your nails to your hair to your skin. “Nail hardeners work by binding the keratin protein in your nails more tightly and hardening your nail plates, making them less flexible,” says Nguyen.

Keep in mind that they're rarely considered clean. “They typically contain ingredients such as formaldehyde, toluene, calcium, and various proteins, which work to reinforce and fortify the nail bed,” says Yashi Shrestha. Ethyl acetate and methylene glycol are other bonding agents commonly found in nail hardeners. 

Who Should Be Using a Nail Hardener?

Nail hardeners are designed for those who need a quick fix to strengthen their soft, bendy nails. “Hardeners are for those who are having extreme difficulty growing out their nails, and the nail breakages are causing pain,” says Nguyen. On the other hand, nail softeners (or conditioners) are for those lacking nail moisture.

Nail strengtheners, meanwhile, are “great for someone who already has nails that are in good shape and wants to prevent brittle or unhealthy nails," she says. "Strengtheners contain ingredients like keratin, which penetrates between the nail layers to help strengthen the nail plate over a period of time."

How to Use a Nail Hardener

Using a nail hardener is pretty straightforward — they’re usually transparent or translucent and are applied just like any nail polish. “Start with clean nails, then use a nail hardener as a base coat underneath your nail polish, or it can be used alone," says Shrestha. "You can also use them with other nourishing nail care products, such as cuticle oil and moisturizer."

While you're repairing your nails, you might want to skip the polish. “Typically, you apply nail hardener once a week to encourage healthy nail growth,” adds Nguyen. 

How Long Does It Take to Work?

Consistency is key, but you don’t want to remain dependent on nail hardeners forever. “The time it takes to see the benefits of a nail hardener can vary depending on the individual and the product being used," Shrestha says. "In general, you may start to see some improvement in the strength and resilience of your nails within a few weeks of using a nail hardener regularly."

However, for long-term results, it pays to be consistent. Also, take time to scope out your nails between manicures. “I suggest looking at your nails closely to feel the difference in nail strength before slowing down the usage of the nail hardener," Nguyen says. "Use nail hardener as a short-term treatment to grow out your nails. Once they grow out, switch over to a nail strengthener to maintain and protect your nails over a longer period of time." Source