What is exfoliation?
"Exfoliation is the process of removing dead skin cells," says board-certified dermatologist Raechele Cochran Gathers, M.D.. "Exfoliation can improve skin circulation, encourage skin turnover, and improve the absorption of certain skin care products. Exfoliation can help brighten dull skin and might even help in conditions like acne."
The top layer of epidermis called the stratum corneum is actually a thin layer of dead skin cells. Your skin barrier actually uses these dead cells as a layer of protection (read: we want those skin cells there!). This top layer is in a constant cycle of shedding. In fact, your skin naturally exfoliates itself every single day—you shed between 30,000 and 40,000 dead skin cells every minute.
The problem arises, however, when this process slows due to age, weather, skin conditions, and so on. In these instances, the dead skin cells may accumulate too much—so the skin appears dull, pores clog, or acne forms.
But it's important to note that on the flip side, additional problems arise when you remove too much of that layer, as that will inhibit skin barrier function. That's why finding an appropriate balance for your skin is key.
How often should you exfoliate?
The amount you should exfoliate weekly will depend on your skin type, but anywhere between 1-3 times a week is ideal according to Ife Rodney, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Eternal Dermatology.
"Most people with normal or combination skin can get away with twice or even thrice-weekly exfoliation," she says. "Those with more mature, dry, or sensitive skin, may only want to exfoliate weekly."
If you have very oily or acne-prone skin, you might be able to tolerate more than thrice weekly.
In addition, those with inflammatory skin conditions (like eczema) or very sensitive skin may want to exfoliate once or twice a month—if at all.
Your skin requires a delicate balance of exfoliation. When you overdo it, you run the risk of damaging your skin barrier, resulting in irritation and inflammation. Don't do it enough, and you may be met with dullness or clogged pores. It may take a little guess-and-test, but the average person can handle two to three times a week.
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